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Urueña and Calonge are Spain's two book towns, but the idea was born in Hay-on-Wye and has spread across half the world. A journey through the villages where books take centre stage.

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Have you ever visited a library with no intention of reading a book? In Spain, some are worth a visit in their own right, from the one Philip II had built in the Monastery of El Escorial to the Senate library, with its wrought-iron display cases and spiral staircases, or the library of the Monastery of Yuso, which holds around ten thousand old books.
Many of them began in monasteries and universities, and some have spent centuries gathering manuscripts, incunabula (books printed before 1501) and collections that are now part of Spain's cultural heritage. We have picked ten of the most spectacular in Spain: some you can walk around inside, others can only be admired through a glass screen, and a few require advance booking. We tell you what you'll find in each one and how you can visit.

The Main Hall of the Royal Library of El Escorial, with one of its armillary spheres. Photo: Jose Luis Filpo Cabana (CC BY 3.0).
01 · EL ESCORIAL
Philip II set out to gather one of the great libraries of his time in the Monastery of El Escorial. To do so, he enlisted the help of leading humanists and brought together manuscripts and printed books from different parts of Europe.
Its best-known room is the Main Hall, 54 metres long, with bookcases designed by Juan de Herrera and a vault painted in fresco by Pellegrino Tibaldi. The paintings depict the seven liberal arts, Theology and Philosophy. Armillary spheres, astrolabes and globes are displayed in the centre of the room, and the portraits of Charles V, Philip II, Philip III and Charles II hang on the columns.
There's a curious detail on its shelves: the old books were placed with their gilded fore-edges facing out, instead of the spine, to give them a uniform look.
The library holds some 40,000 printed books, including more than 600 incunabula, and thousands of manuscripts in Latin, Greek, Arabic, Castilian and Hebrew.
02 · SALAMANCA
The University of Salamanca has one of the oldest university libraries in Europe. Its origins go back to 1254, in the reign of Alfonso X the Wise, although the room you see today was rebuilt in 1749, after its Gothic vault collapsed.
It is on the upper cloister of the Escuelas Mayores building and keeps large wooden bookcases, globes and an extremely valuable collection of old manuscripts and printed books.
Among its holdings is a manuscript of The Book of Good Love, by the Archpriest of Hita, one of the most important works of medieval Castilian literature. It also holds Queen Sancha's Liber Canticorum, from the 11th century.
If the interior looks familiar, you may have seen it in Álex de la Iglesia's series 30 Coins, which was partly filmed here. And on your way out, built against the facade of the Escuelas Mayores, is the house where Unamuno lived as rector (we tell you about it in our page on the Unamuno House Museum).

The historic room of the University of Salamanca library, on the upper cloister of the Escuelas Mayores. Photo: Antoine Taveneaux (CC BY-SA 3.0).

The library of the Senate Palace, in Madrid. Photo: MaGrc (CC BY-SA 4.0).
03 · MADRID
In the Senate Palace in Madrid there is a library that recalls the old English reading rooms. And it may be no coincidence: the architect Emilio Rodríguez Ayuso, who began remodelling it in 1882, probably looked to the Palace of Westminster, home of the British Parliament.
The room occupies one of the old cloisters of the convent of Doña María de Aragón. Its display cases and ornamentation are made of wrought iron, spiral staircases lead up to the upper floor and two skylights let in natural light.
Its collection exceeds 300,000 volumes on a wide range of subjects (not just parliamentary ones). Its historical holdings include ten incunabula, a first edition of the Encyclopédie by Diderot and D'Alembert and the 16th-century Latin Grammar by Antonio de Nebrija.
04 · BARCELONA
The Arús Public Library opened its doors in 1895 thanks to the legacy of Rossend Arús i Arderiu, a journalist, playwright and champion of free thought who left instructions in his will to found a public library so that the people of Barcelona could educate themselves.
The reading room keeps its 1895 layout, with its large central lamp, and the assembly hall retains its original bookcases and chandelier. After being closed for much of the Franco regime, it reopened to the public in 1967.
Today it specialises in freemasonry, anarchism and the labour movement, but it also holds a collection that detective fiction fans will love.
In 2011 it received the Joan Proubasta collection, made up of more than 12,000 items related to Sherlock Holmes, the detective created by Arthur Conan Doyle: novels in 42 languages, comics, films, objects and even a first edition of The Hound of the Baskervilles.

The ceiling and chandelier of the assembly hall of the Arús Public Library, in Barcelona. Photo: Enric (CC BY-SA 4.0).

The English Library of the Real Casino de Murcia, with its wooden gallery. Photo: amaianos (CC BY 2.0).
05 · MURCIA
The Real Casino de Murcia is known for its Arab Patio and its ballroom, but among its rooms there is also a library worth stopping to admire.
The English Library was built in the early 20th century and keeps an upper gallery of carved wood, supported by curious bird-shaped iron brackets. Its shelves hold some 20,000 volumes.
The building began to go up in the 19th century as the home of a social club and was gradually extended with rooms in very different styles. That's why, during the visit, you can go from the Arab Patio to the Pompeian Patio or to this library that seems to take you to England.
06 · VALLADOLID
The Colegio de Santa Cruz in Valladolid was founded in 1483 by Cardinal Pedro González de Mendoza and had a library for its students from the very beginning.
Today it houses the University of Valladolid Historical Library, which looks after much of its old book heritage: manuscripts, incunabula and works printed before 1835.
Its best-known room keeps a large 18th-century Baroque bookcase, with wooden shelves on two levels covering almost every wall.
Although it is still a research space, you can also see it during a visit to the Palacio de Santa Cruz. That said, you can't wander freely among the books: entry to the room is reserved for researchers and certain academic and institutional visits.

The bookcase of the Santa Cruz Historical Library, in Valladolid. Photo: Matilde Colibrí (CC BY-SA 4.0).

The Monastery of Santa María de La Vid, in Burgos. Photo: Luis Rogelio HM (CC BY-SA 2.0).
07 · LA VID
In the province of Burgos, near Aranda de Duero, the Monastery of Santa María de La Vid has a library of more than 150,000 volumes spread across several rooms.
The main room holds some 25,000 books in a vaulted space with two-tier wooden bookcases. Its holdings include manuscripts, scientific works, historical documents and incunabula, six of them the only copies in Spanish libraries.
One of its oldest books is a manuscript Qur'an on parchment dated 1134. The collection also includes documents from the 14th to the 18th centuries and many books gathered by the Augustinians, who took over the monastery in 1865.
Unlike other monastic libraries, this one can be visited, separately from the general monastery tour and with advance booking. What's more, the visits are led by the Augustinian friars who live there.
08 · SEVILLE
Hernando Colón, son of Christopher Columbus, spent much of his life collecting books. On his travels around Europe he bought all kinds of publications, from great works by classical authors to small printed pamphlets that other collectors would probably have overlooked.
His aim was to create a universal library with all the written knowledge of his time, and by his death he had gathered more than 15,000 volumes. Many were lost, and those that remain passed to Seville Cathedral in 1552, where they make up the Biblioteca Colombina.
Next to it is the Chapter Library (Biblioteca Capitular), which began with the bequest of Alfonso X in 1284 and today holds more than 100,000 volumes. Together they hold an important collection of old books, manuscripts and incunabula that tell the story of written culture from the Middle Ages onwards.
The Cathedral organises guided tours of the Biblioteca Capitular Colombina, a chance to see its historic rooms and shelves, which are not normally open to the general public.

The door of the Biblioteca Colombina, in Seville Cathedral. Photo: Hispalois (CC BY-SA 4.0).

The cloister of La Nau, the historic building of the University of Valencia. Photo: Rafa Esteve (CC BY-SA 4.0).
09 · VALENCIA
In the historic building of the University of Valencia, known as La Nau, there is a library that holds some of the most important books in the history of Spanish printing.
Among them is the only known copy of Obres e trobes en lahors de la Verge Maria, published in Valencia in 1474 and considered the first literary book printed on the Iberian Peninsula and the first book printed in the Crown of Aragon.
It also holds one of the three known copies of the first edition of Tirant lo Blanc, from 1490, as well as more than a thousand manuscripts, incunabula and collections from convents and monasteries whose property was confiscated in the 19th century.
Its historic room is the Sala Duc de Calàbria, with pine and pear-wood bookcases dating from when the library reopened in 1837, after the fire during the war against Napoleon. Two globes are displayed there, one terrestrial and one celestial, made in Amsterdam by Willem and Joan Blaeu in the mid-17th century.
The room is named after Ferdinand of Aragon, Duke of Calabria, whose collection of manuscripts ended up in the university's holdings.
10 · SAN MILLÁN DE LA COGOLLA
The monasteries of Suso and Yuso, in San Millán de la Cogolla, are closely linked to the history of the Spanish language. This is where the famous Glosas Emilianenses were written, one of the earliest records of Hispanic Romance (the original codex is now kept at the Royal Academy of History, in Madrid).
The Monastery of Yuso has a library of around 10,000 volumes. Among its books are manuscripts, incunabula and works as unusual as Jerónimo Nadal's gospel book, printed in Antwerp in 1595, whose illustrations were coloured by hand.
Its holdings are still being studied and restored: in 2026 work began to recover six books from the 16th to the 18th centuries, including a 1706 edition of Don Quixote.
The exhibition AutorIA. La Rioja, tierra del español opens up areas of the monastery that were not part of the usual visit, including the library, and traces the history of the language from the first monastic texts to the challenges posed by artificial intelligence.

The library of the Monastery of Yuso, in San Millán de la Cogolla. Photo: Cenobio (CC BY-SA 4.0).
So, are you up for it?
These ten libraries are just a small part of the book heritage preserved in Spain. Some let you stroll among their shelves, while others keep their rooms restricted to protect the books they hold. We'll keep looking for places connected with the world of books, so if you know a historic library that you think should be on this list, tell us in the comments! And if contemporary architecture is more your thing, we'll soon publish another selection devoted to the most original and surprising libraries in Spain.
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